Free Auto Loan Calculator — Monthly Car Payment

Estimate your monthly car payment from vehicle price, down payment, trade-in, loan term, APR, and sales tax. See total interest paid over the life of the loan.

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Enter your details on the left, then press Calculate.

What is this calculator for?

You're at a Toyota dealership looking at a $34,500 Camry. The salesperson punches numbers and says "we can get you in this car for $545 a month." You want to know if that's a good deal, what the interest rate works out to, what the total cost over the loan term will be. The auto loan calculator gives you the math behind whatever the F&I office is telling you — so you don't walk out paying $10,000 more than you should over the life of the loan.

Auto loan terms have been stretching dangerously. The average new car loan term in 2024 is 68 months (5.7 years) — up from 51 months a decade ago. Longer terms mean lower monthly payments but more total interest and a much higher risk of being "underwater" (owing more than the car is worth) for years. Auto rates as of 2024-25: 6-9% for new car loans for prime credit (700+ FICO), 9-15% for subprime, 4-6% for credit-union new-car promos.

This calculator computes monthly payment, total interest, total paid, and equity timeline (when do you stop being underwater on a financed car). Use it before signing — most car buyers should walk into the F&I office already knowing what monthly payment, rate, and term they'll accept.

How to use this calculator

Enter vehicle price (negotiated price, not MSRP), down payment, trade-in value (if applicable, less any remaining loan on trade-in), and any fees rolled into financing (sales tax, doc fees, extended warranty if you bought one).

The financed amount = vehicle price + rolled-in fees − down payment − trade-in equity. Many car buyers don't realize how much extra they're financing beyond the sticker price; the F&I office routinely adds 3-8% in "back-end" products (extended warranty, GAP insurance, paint protection, tire-and-wheel coverage) that get rolled into the loan.

Set the interest rate (APR). Get rate quotes from your bank or credit union BEFORE going to the dealer — the dealer's financing markup is typically 1-3 percentage points above what your bank would offer directly. Walking in with a pre-approved loan offer gives you negotiating leverage.

Choose the loan term: 36, 48, 60, 72, or 84 months. Shorter is better for total cost. Don't stretch to 84 months just because the salesperson offers it; the lower monthly is offset by 2-3× more interest and years of being underwater.

The calculator outputs monthly payment, total interest, total amount paid, and an equity timeline showing when your loan balance falls below the car's depreciated value.

Understanding your results

The calculator returns monthly payment, total interest, total amount paid, and a depreciation vs payoff curve showing when you reach positive equity.

How to read it. $34,500 car, $3,500 down + $2,000 trade = $5,500 down equivalent. Financed: $29,000 at 7% APR. 60-month term: monthly payment $574, total interest $5,440. 72-month: monthly $493, total interest $6,521. 84-month: monthly $440, total interest $7,960. The 84-month payment is $134/month cheaper than 60-month but costs an extra $2,520 in total interest. Plus you're underwater longer (the car depreciates faster than the loan pays down for the first 3-4 years of an 84-month loan).

The depreciation reality. Average new car loses 20-30% of value in the first year, 50-60% by year 5. A $34,500 car is worth ~$24,500 after year 1, ~$13,800 by year 5. If you financed $29,000 at 7% over 84 months, your loan balance after year 1 is still ~$26,000 — you owe more than the car is worth. This "underwater" period extends through year 3-4 on long-term loans. If you total the car in an accident: insurance pays only the depreciated value, you owe the remaining loan balance. GAP insurance covers this gap; many financed cars need it for the first 2-3 years.

The rate-comparison value. Same $29K loan, 60-month: at 5% APR (credit union typical) = $547/month, $3,830 interest. At 7% (dealer typical) = $574/month, $5,440 interest. At 11% (subprime) = $631/month, $8,860 interest. Same car, different lender = thousands of dollars different. Always get pre-approved at your credit union before negotiating; the dealer can match or beat to keep your business if their rate is worse.

The 20/4/10 rule. Personal finance guidance for healthy auto purchases: at least 20% down, no more than 4 year (48 month) term, all car-related expenses (loan + insurance + maintenance + gas) under 10% of gross monthly income. Adherence to this rule keeps people out of perpetual underwater car loans. Reality: most car buyers fail at least two of the three.

A worked example

Marcus, 32, needs a reliable car for his new commute. He's looking at: 2022 Toyota Camry SE certified pre-owned, $24,800. His credit score: 740 (good). Current car: 2014 Honda Civic worth $5,500 trade-in value.

Pre-shopping prep: Marcus gets pre-approved at his credit union for 5.49% APR on 60-month auto loan. Walks into the dealer with that approval in his pocket.

Dealer math: Camry $24,800 + tax (8%) $1,984 + doc fee $499 + title $75 = $27,358. Minus $5,500 trade. Financed amount: $21,858.

Dealer's F&I offer: 7.99% APR over 72 months = $381/month. Marcus says "my credit union pre-approved me at 5.49% over 60 months." F&I counter: 6.49% over 60 months = $427/month, total interest $3,756. Credit union: 5.49% over 60 months = $416/month, total interest $3,118. Credit union still wins by $638 over the loan.

Marcus also declines extended warranty ($1,800), GAP insurance from dealer ($600 — he can get GAP cheaper through credit union if he wants), paint protection ($400), VIN etching ($200). He accepted the basic financing only. The dealer makes less back-end money but Marcus saved $3,000 in declined add-ons plus the better rate.

Final outcome: $24,800 Camry, $5,500 trade, $21,858 financed at 5.49% over 60 months. Monthly $416. Total cost of ownership over 5 years (assuming $1,200/year insurance, $400/year maintenance, $1,800/year gas): about $44,000 all-in. Walking-out price was honest, financing was competitive, no rolled-in fluff.

Five years later: Marcus owns the Camry free and clear. Total interest paid: $3,118. Car worth roughly $14,000 (good condition trade-in). He keeps driving it another 5 years — by year 10 the car has cost him about $0.42/mile all-in, well below the $0.55-0.70/mile typical for new cars.

Related resources

For broader transportation cost analysis, see Fuel Cost Calculator and Gas Mileage Calculator. For tire and maintenance considerations, the Tire Size Calculator. For broader debt context including auto loans in DTI, the DTI Ratio Calculator. For the underlying loan math, the Loan Amortization Calculator. The CFPB's auto loan resource covers federal protections, common scams, and consumer rights in auto financing.

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Frequently asked questions

What is a good auto loan rate?

Rates depend heavily on credit score. Experian's Q4 2024 data shows roughly 5.25% for excellent credit (720+), 6.7% for prime (660-719), 9.7% for nonprime (620-659), and 13%+ for subprime new-car loans. Used cars typically run 1-2 percentage points higher than new.

How does a trade-in affect my payment?

Trade-in value reduces your loan amount dollar-for-dollar, just like a larger down payment. A $5,000 trade-in on a 60-month, 6.5% APR loan saves about $98/month and roughly $880 in total interest. Some states also let you deduct trade-in value from the taxable price.

Should I choose a longer loan term?

Longer terms (72-84 months) lower your monthly payment but cost more in total interest and increase the time you're underwater on the loan. On a $30,000 loan at 6.5%, a 60-month term costs about $5,200 in interest; an 84-month term costs about $7,400 — $2,200 more for $100/month savings. Cars depreciate faster than long loans amortize.

What's a good interest rate on a car loan?

Depends on your credit and current market rates. As of 2024-25: prime credit (740+ FICO) 5-7% for new cars, 6-9% for used. Average credit (670-739): 7-10%. Subprime (600-669): 11-15%. Deep subprime (below 600): 18-22%+. Get pre-approval quotes from 2-3 lenders before visiting the dealer: your bank, your credit union, and one online lender like Capital One Auto Navigator or LightStream. The lowest pre-approval rate is your negotiating floor. Credit unions consistently offer the lowest rates for prime credit; subprime borrowers often get worse rates from credit unions and need specialized subprime lenders.

Should I take the rebate or the low-APR financing?

Compare in absolute dollar terms. Dealer offers $2,500 cash rebate OR 1.9% promotional financing on $30,000 over 60 months. Option A: take rebate, finance $27,500 at 6% (your market rate) = $531/month × 60 = $31,860 total, $4,360 interest, but you got $2,500 rebate, net cost $29,360. Option B: 1.9% on full $30,000 over 60 months = $524/month × 60 = $31,440 total, $1,440 interest, net cost $31,440. Rebate option saves $2,080. The 1.9% finance promo is only better when it's substantially below your market rate AND the rebate is small. Always do the math; don't trust dealer claims about which is better.

How much car can I afford?

Conservative rule: total car costs (loan + insurance + gas + maintenance) under 15% of take-home pay. Aggressive but workable: under 20%. Above 20% squeezes other goals. For someone earning $75K gross ($60K take-home), 15% = $750/month all-in. That supports a roughly $25-30K car at typical 60-month financing and average insurance. 20% supports $35-40K. Above that you're financing too much car for income. Many Americans spend 30%+ of income on transportation; this is one reason savings rates are low and credit card debt is high.

Should I buy new or used?

Used almost always wins financially, especially 2-3 year old used. New cars depreciate 20-30% in the first year — buying a 2-year-old certified pre-owned captures that depreciation as a discount. A 2024 model bought new at $34,000 might be available as a 2022 certified at $26,000 with 30K miles. The 2-3 year old certified market hits the sweet spot: most depreciation done, still under factory warranty in many cases, fresh enough to feel modern. New car wins only when: you need a specific configuration not available used, you're keeping it 10+ years (so depreciation matters less), or you're getting a substantial new-car incentive (employee pricing, very-low APR, large rebate) that closes the gap.

What happens if I go underwater on my car loan?

You owe more than the car is worth — not immediately problematic if you keep making payments. Becomes a problem only if: (1) the car gets totaled and insurance pays only depreciated value (GAP insurance covers this; buy it through your auto insurer for $20-50/year, way cheaper than the dealer's $600). (2) You need to sell early (e.g., job change, divorce) and have to bring cash to the table to cover the deficit. (3) You want to trade in for a new car (the deficit gets rolled into the new loan, perpetuating the cycle). Long-term loans (72-84 months) keep you underwater for years; 48-60 month loans get you positive equity within 18-30 months. The shorter loan is structurally less risky even if monthly payment is higher.

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